Lesson 1 – Style, Skin type, Color

About style – this is the first and the most important!

I think everyone agrees that all clients are different, and naive to believe that, all would go fairly well. First and foremost, it is the motivation of women that defines woman.

I define 4 types of Motivation: Beauty, Social Status, Functionality, Unique Personality.

Each client combines all of these ”motivations” but one or 2 of them will be predominant.

Beauty Motivation. People with dominant beauty motivation care deeply about their appearance. These people take great care about the way they look, about outfits, accessories, the way they are speaking, etc. Bottom line-They want to look attractive and draw attention.

Motivation Functionality. For some reason ( work, family life, professional sports, lifestyle, personality or health issues) these women do not have the time or wish to do makeup or choose PMU as a low maintenance option. Bottom line- most of all they value comfort and convenience.

The Motivation- Social Status. Due to the work position, family status, religion, family values or personality these people can not allow themselves to look light-minded, vulgar or overly sexy. Often these types of clients work as lawyers, doctors, teachers, politicians, businesswomen, etc. The bottom line- their looks should match their position in society.

The motivation of Personality. These people have their own ideas about the way they like to look. They do not care about current trends or fashion much. These are one of the most complicated to work this. Good news-you won’t meet many clients like this. Most probably their eyebrows won’t be a conventional type and you will have to spend time with them to work out the way their eyebrows should be like. Bottom line- a challenging type of client with uniques style and preferences.

For women with Functionality Motivation, looks do not pay a big role in their lives. Normally they get up, brush their teeth, comb the hair and they are ready to go. They do not want to waste time and energy on making themselves look beautiful. On contrary, for a woman with motivation Beauty is simply unacceptable to go out without some makeup on or in a bad looking outfit. They do not mind to invest time, money and energy into their looks. The motto of Beauty motivated person is- ”Do all you possibly can to look great”. For example, they would let their eyebrow hair to grow and dye them if necessary to make them look more attractive.

The thing you should know about Beauty motivated clients- most of them gonna ask you to add more color when they show up for the touch-up procedure. In the beginning, they ask for the natural-looking brows but what they truly desire is dramatic looking eyebrows. Beauty motivated people can look different ways: Romantic or Boho look, can have aggressive sexy look or vamp look, can look bold or sweet, it depends. The main thing Motivation Beauty eyebrows should have the ”makeup” look. In this case, the Beuty Motivation will dominate the Convenience and for an outstanding result, the client may even dye the eyebrow hair. Beauty Motivated people do not change much under any circumstances. They may take care of themselves less if, for example, the woman has a baby, but even in this case they will try to look their best. Many women are 50/50% Functionality and Beauty type. They love to look pretty but they prefer low maintenance options same time. Again, Beauty looks can vary: tender or sexy, classy or crazy. But the idea behind all these looks is the same- all these people want to look good and are ready to work on it and maintain it.

This lady, for example, wears make up every day and would not be interested in Powder style brows.

But this angelic looking lady would most probably prefer the tender look of Powder brows.

This is the healed soft Powder brows.

• The problem is that Powder Brows look very natural and for some Beauty motivated girls is not enough, they want more dramatic looking brows. As I said before 90% of them ask for ”a little bit more color” when they come back for the touch-up procedure.

This one is a healed fancy ombre brow.

• Women who are Functionality motivated for some reason choose not to care about their looks much. They might have no time, or simply wish to look fancy. These women seldom have their hair colored, and in general, they seldom go to beauty salons to have something done. They do not wear much makeup or do not wear any at all, dress up in casual or sporty style, love grey, and black outfit apparel colors. They prefer natural fabrics, do not carry luxury handbags. So if you make fancy eyebrows to such a client it might look or even ridiculous. The woman will become a ”background” for her eyebrows, as nothing but her brows will catch your eye. There is no chance that she gonna start wearing makeup to match her lovely bright eyebrows. If she did not wear makeup for many years before the procedure she will not change. These types of women wear makeup on very special occasions only, for her child’s wedding ceremony or something like that. In this case, you need to make sure that the eyebrows will look natural on the face and match the whole ”picture”. Also, make sure that client won’t need to make any effort (apply makeup or dye the hair) to match the new eyebrows. Because they simply won’t do it! You should not make fancy PMU eyeliner to a woman who never applies any mascara to her eyelashes nor should not you make bright-looking PMU on the lips to someone who does not wear any makeup either.

Look at these lips as an example. I love this work but they look pretty fancy when healed. And to make them look proper you need to apply some lip gloss every day. But the girl who got this PMU done is a typical Functional one, and she is a very casual looking girl.

She wears no makeup, makes no hairstyle, sporty clothes, etc. How do you think, would she care about her fancy lips? Of course not!

And as a result, she asked for the lips PMU removal after 2 months after the procedure. And as you know is not easy to remove PMU.

• When a client is Functionally motivated, it might be better to remove the old PMU first. Why?

Because she will never dye her natural hair regularly to match the eyebrows. In this particular case, we should remove both eyebrow ”tails” and cover it with natural PMU which gonna match the natural hair color of the client.

Here we see a client who has done 3 PMU procedures: eyebrows, eyeliner, and Full Lips PMU. She is a Functional + Beauty motivated person. She looks good without any makeup on.

I met this woman in a park 2 years after I have made her eyebrows, lips and eyeliner. She is also Functionally + Beauty type.

I recommended her to refresh the color every year but she would not do it. I have used a very steady pigment for her PMU. Because I knew she was Functionally predominately and that she would not come back in a year. I was right.:) She actually got oily skin, but the brows are still there. And yes, they are not red after 2 years. Why?

Because I used the Tattoo Ink mix.

–Ok next–

This girl is a 100% Functionally Motivation type of girl with light blond natural hair and brows. I have asked her if she would dye her brows every two weeks to match the pigment. She looked astonished and said- ”No, why would I do that when I have PMU eyebrows done??!”. Most people believe that if they pay for PMU eyebrows done they can forget about taking care after their eyebrows forever!

I colored her eyebrows with Henna and explained to her that this will make her brows look1-2 tones darker and that it is easy to do at home on her own.

One week later she sent me some selfies and wrote that it looks really nice but she is too lazy to color her eyebrows with henna regularly. But at least she knows the way how to do it now. I also explained to her that with such bright brows she will look like a ” walking advert” of my work. Look at this picture and you see that only her eyebrows and scarf are standing out.

All right, let’s talk about The Social Status Motivation.

The people normally are career-oriented and work as teachers, doctors, lawyers. Due to the job position they cannot look funny or super sexy or bring any ”wrong message” by the way they look. It is a bad idea to make a fancy PMU eyeliner or sexy pink lips for them. They should look appropriate and professional in daily life. In many cases, it is a good idea to mix Beauty and Social Status Motivation, in this case, to make it look beautiful but not vulgar or too intense. Elegant lines, clean work will work, the main thing it should look classy, not cheap. Keep I mind that makeup can change everything! The style is the most important thing in PMU but the second most important thing is our features. The style is all about what the client want’s to get from PMU, and features are about what we can work out of the case. To reach the desired result we should pay attention to the skin complexion, ”color type”, contrast, facial features. Women of Social Status Motivation normally choose good quality clothes, classic style outfits, no revealing clothes. They prefer well-known brands, do not wear cheap accessories and they would never apply green nail polish just because it is trendy.

Personality Motivation.

This type of client has their own idea about how they want to look. They often look extravagant or even are freaks. They are different in any way-they way they speak, move, think. It is a challenge to work with them and you should work out the way their eyebrows should look and find a compromise. We should find out their motives, profession, religion or anything that can make an impact on the way they want their PMU to look like. To crown it all you must pay attention to everything and to some details especially to understand what kind of PMU your client gonna be happy with. You can find out the client’s Motivation by the voice, bag, watch, car, jewelry, a hobby or even a pet. Pay attention to the smallest things as everything shows up the personality.

Let’s continue and now about contrast

Look at those pictures, what do you think about the blond and brunette variant for the same person?
I think blond hair make the girl more soft and tender
And brunettes are very bright

• Contrast
  Range of color from light to darkest we call contrast:
  The white of the eye (Sclera), and tooth enamel are mostly white, and the darkest parts on our body are the hair and iris.

Makeup and PMU is one of the ways to make our contrast higher
And we have to be careful!

Pay attention to the darkest and most white shades, they are the limit of permissible, all others are will be breaking the natural harmony!

• There is such a thing as human color type;
  – The basic colors are the ones that are present in human natural appearances, and they constitute a natural harmony – coherency.
• There are for at least 5-7 shades of natural hair
  -There are many colors in any eyes, and all of them will be ideally suited to your clients’ dress code. By using colors from the eye in PMU you will have up to 100% harmonic for them.

If you will try to find analogs of her color from hair, eyes, lips, skin we will get her colors passport

• The darkest and whitest colors will define the limit
• The unnatural situations can immediately catch the eye.

If to do a contrast there, where it should not be, this place becomes the most appear-ant and brighter on a face.
If you increase the contrast, it makes a woman brighter and more noticeable, but we must do it correctly and to find the right balance. By adding in one place would be unwise, for this, you cannot leave everything else unchanged.

For me the color of the brows don’t depend on hair color but depends on contrast and motivation, for example:

Gwen Stefani is a girl with very high contrast white of eyes clean and her iris is very dark
She can have many variants on her brows and all of them looks nice and change her look a little bit

What is better?

      I think it depends of her motivation, if she is very strong beauty motivated and girls who dye hairs in totally different color are beauty motivated more than 100% and may be individual – like Gwen, her style like modern Merlin Monroe many years, so I’m sure that better to do decorative intensive brows, but not too dark, because, without makeup, she looks like an angel, and better too keep it, but ask her, maybe she doesn’t need angels to look even at home.

And one more example

Dita Von Teese

Sometimes we have to think about what is better, keep it like this or tried to change because the color of natural brows hair can be very dark or blond, and you know that’s very difficult to change color for this type of brows.
She can be blond or brunette but strong black brows hair 🤔🤔🤔 better to keep it.

Look at natural and motivation and try to find a compromise. Girls who dye hair are beauty motivated 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 and love decorative, just try to understand, a romantic or cold style they are.

Ok, remember that for makeup there are two ways, make lady brighter or use colors from her color limit, from her colors passport. With more decorative variant your clients will look more aggressive and older some times. Like on these pictures

Here makeup artists use colors darker than their natural, and yes their clients became brighter but more aggressive, and older at the same time.

And here is an example of makeup with natural colors and these ladies become brighter and looks amazing

• This is especially for the Asians and middle eastern women. Let me comment on that topic.
  Arrows and eyebrows make them older and stricter, smoky variants emphasize but not increase the contrast.
  Therefore, humans with high contrast are not afraid of colors. They are accustomed to attention. That is, why, they are more than others and often require, eyebrows, eyes, lips, and something else for enhancing their appearance.
• It is difficult in some ways to persuade or pursue brunette to do their lips. When eyebrows and eyes are already done.
  Linearity also carries a function, if makeup is done more linearly, it will seem stricter and more noticeable, but there are no clear lines in nature
  For example, brows can be Blondie, but with a clear bottom line and they will look more expressive than smoked at the same color.
  That is, why, contrast and linearity determine bright, dark, clear and fluffy.
  Clear bright or dark brows, bright or dark fluffy brows, bright or dark lips with contour.
  There are many of our clients with very strong Beauty motivation and all they want it’s just look bright
• And of cause why not, just do it correctly.
  It’s possible to mark just one zone like eyebrow or lips, you can recommend change color of hair or explain how to choose the right clothes colors etс.

Let’s try to talk about color and skin types

I divide this block for a few questions, will try to answer them and demonstrate it with examples.

• Does the color of the skin affect color, when it heals?

I think NO. Why?

I’ll try to explain. The temperature of color type is not so important than a melanin saturation, and closeness of blood vessels. On dark skin, PMU looks more clear and the color looks more volumetric and alive. Than skin lighter and tighter, than more difficult to choose the pigment, and when it heals it looks flat. All skin defects appear immediately. There are not warmth or coldness influences to a color shade, this is the skin structure characteristics.

You can take one ash color for these ladies and it will heal nice and pretty, so I believe, that for choose the right pigment you need to know only :

• 1. Motivation (dark or light, lines or shadows)
• 2. Contrast (dark or light again ) decide if it’s possible to take what she wants
• 3. Characteristic of pigment in time (iron oxide pigment can become red, the tattoo can become blue, etc) we will speak about it later.

I want to tell that’s skin can’t change the temperature of pigment.

Here is one problem:

Red color when healing, but the mistake is not in color choice, it is the vascular reaction for skin damage.
This skin just needs more time for regeneration than all.

Here is another story:

The color looks coldness, pigment put too deep, this is due to mistakes in technique, but not with color of the skin.

Ok let’s imagine that we are all working with perfect technique ☺🎉

How to choose the color of pigment then?

In the selection of a pigment color for the work determining factor for me is the motivation of a client.

First of all, we should choose the style, we had spoken about it – If the image is warm, it should be more positive.