Lesson 6 – Color and Skin types

Let’s try to talk about color and skin types

I divide this block for a few questions, will try to answer them and demonstrate it with examples.

• Does the color of the skin affect color, when it heals?

I think NO. Why?

I’ll try to explain. The temperature of color type is not so important than a melanin saturation, and closeness of blood vessels. On dark skin, PMU looks more clear and the color looks more volumetric and alive. Than skin lighter and tighter, than more difficult to choose the pigment, and when it heals it looks flat. All skin defects appear immediately. There are not warmth or coldness influences to a color shade, this is the skin structure characteristics.

You can take one ash color for these ladies and it will heal nice and pretty, so I believe, that for choosing the right pigment you need to know only :

• 1. Motivation (dark or light, lines or shadows)
• 2. Contrast (dark or light again ) decide if it's possible to take what she wants
• 3. Characteristic of pigment in time (iron oxide pigment can become red, the tattoo can become blue, etc) we will speak about it later.

I want to tell that's skin can't change the temperature of pigment.

Here is one problem:

Red color when healing, but the mistake is not in color choice, it is the vascular reaction for skin damage.
This skin just needs more time for regeneration than all.

Here is another story:

The color looks coldness, pigment put too deep, this is due to mistakes in technique, but not with color of the skin.

Ok let’s imagine that we are all working with perfect technique ☺🎉

How to choose the color of pigment then?

In the selection of a pigment color for the work determining factor for me is the motivation of a client.

First of all, we should choose the style, we had spoken about it – If the image is warm, it should be more positive. For example, if the image is romantic, then the color should be more volumetric - I like the term “multicolor”.

I'm taking 2-3-4 colors. With gold or milk chocolate effect. Why because like with contrast warm color and waves in hair and body make the person looks tender and softer.

If the image is strict, I'll choose the monochrome shade.

I try to avoid the term warm or cold because it’s not necessary to choose only this category.
When I speak multicolor it means that there can be three shades. It can be brownish or yellow, wheat color, then the brows look more warmth and they do image more softly.

Monochrome, I'm choosing for a most strict image, as a rule of thumb, it's ashy and cold shades of brows.

• For example, after having a dialogue with the client, we confirm her rich inside world, which lives a unicorn and butterflies. For this, we do multicolored brows with a drop of wheat color for creating softness. If you’ll do blonde brows, her image becomes strict and she will lose her romantic and naivety.

Ok example

Here I'll choose something multicolored and decorative because of motivation and her contrast high enough
And for a business lady, I'll prefer to use only 1 ash pig and get monochrome effect.

Can you see how they are different?

Of cause for understanding everything you need to speak with them and ask about profession, family, hobbies, etc

• Multicolored from cold to warm

• Monochrome from cold to cold

For the darkest part of brow I'm always using cold color (ash, taupe, dark chocolate) and then for ombré effect there two ways
1. Light but still cold (ash, cold blond) is monochrome
2. Light and warm (gold blond, milk chocolate, golden ash) is multicolored

You don't need to remember those terms just I want you to see the difference.

In the theory of people colors, there is no division into warm or cold, there is no division into categories spring or winter, but there is an idea for comparison, we just analyze, we try to learn to see the shades and nuances, without trying to include the client to a particular group. It just seems complicated I will explain this in an example accordingly.

Here is a project called “HUMANAE” look it up, if you're interested. The author takes photos of skin shades, more than a thousand different looks.

I think all we are different and individual
And the skin is just one color in our color passport
There is such a thing like a man's passport color
Colors which are presented in a human natural appearance, and making this a natural harmony are called basic colors.
We just have harmony colors and this harmony can be warmer or colder than another.

Example

It's not so important to know the type in some category or group to understand that this guy warmer than this girl, his harmony is warmer, his colors of (hair, skin, eyes .....) are warmer.

This guy warmer than this girl, yes they are both cold with the cold color of skin, eyes, hair...

They are in the same category but he is warmer than she, can you see it?

And if they will start to speak and meet with them, maybe you will find that he is very open, friendly and beauty motivated, so you can choose some multicolored for him.
And she can be in social status and never smiling, for her we will choose some monochrome.

Or maybe she is a very romantic girl with a quiet and tender voice and comes in this dress

And she is a babysitter and married and happy )
What will you choose?
We will choose multicolored for her yes? To make her softer, right? )

Multi mean cold and warm
☝🏻☝🏻☝🏻☝🏻☝🏻☝🏻☝🏻☝🏻☝🏻
But HER warm color, from HER harmony
☝🏻☝🏻☝🏻☝🏻☝🏻☝🏻☝🏻☝🏻☝🏻
She is cold, and all colors from her harmony are cold, but there is warmest in them, this color will be her warm
If she came in this dress we will try to make her look softer

Both variant it's good for her
It just depends if her motivation and personality.

Why, I take the liberty to say, that the determination of skin temperature is not so important?

This is because of the pigments of the skin are determined by the temperature in a sense.

They are lying higher, than where we put our pigment. That's why they will dilute the result for adapting to natural harmony.
This is good from one hand because nature did the work for us. If I'm not mistaken in my technique, it will come out superbly for PMU. On the other hand, this is not good, because ladies always want a decorative thing. In my experience, this is against the human natural appearance of things.

Our task is to explain to a client what is needed and do emphasize the appearance, and what needs not to do – that's professionalism.
From a technical point of view, we don't want to limit our knowledge in PMU, we can give recommendations in clothes or changing hair color, as beautician artists.

For ombré brows, I use 3 types of pigments. It depends on color (dark or light) density (transparent or dramatic) and technique (deep or surface) this is short rules which I follow in my practice :

1. Transparent blond or warm brown color needed - I choose tattoo ink (!!! Only for transparent and surface techniques, never use it for deep techniques and dense color !!!) brows look like that

This is a mix that I always use. It’s only one just 3 basic colors

All these variants are useful, only warm and yellow-based!!!! Never use for color colors !!!!

Remember after healing they are getting colder and getting colder after time.

2. For dense dramatic color I use “6th sense” I know it’s not easy to get them from Russia and it’s difficult to work with them but they are absolutely incredible beautiful after healing, nothing else like them ❤ this is my favorite pigments, they are organic.

3. And for ashy ( I mean cold colors ) I use mineral pigments for machine shading LI is good or Sof Tap brand or biotouch. It depends on your preference for consistency and concentration of the pigments

For Latino girls we need dark brown (brunette color) and as I told tattoo inks heals colder and I don’t recommend to use them, they are turning too quick to grayish in dark color, let me show you the reality

Immediately after

Healed

This is tattoo inks

And this is after 6 months, can you see it? They are grayish.

Not so bad and easy to cover up, but anyway we could avoid it by using mineral pigments and more dense color.

Thank you for taking this course xx